Sunday, March 13, 2022

A new hollow body, archtop, bass guitar build for my personal use.

Dedicated to my dear friend Neill Duncan.
 

My new bass.
I was inspired by my wife's Maton EG 240 Supreme electric.
I am so impressed by its tonality and vintage look that I decided to 
build an acoustic electric, hollow body, archtop, bass guitar to compliment her archtop acoustic electric, jazz guitar.


I put the word out to my luthier community asking if anyone 
had an archtop guitar body laying around. My friend Lyndsay Marks
had an old 1950's Antoria body that had been kicking around 
his workshop for 15 + years! It had no back, however, he also 
had a spare, worm eaten, Hofner back that matched reasonably well.


This old Antoria 6 string was without a back or a neck.
The neck pocket was 10mm out of centre and the neck 
block wood was of dubious quality. Poor quality, built in a hurry 
by a dissatisfied East German.


There was no binding or purfling either.



Next I asked around if anyone had an old short scale bass neck.
Brett at Music Mayhem had an entire short scale bass with 
its pickups removed. I bought it and removed the neck. This was
the only item that I needed for my project.


The machine heads came in handy too!


I was not satisfied with the peg head design so I cut it off.


My next step was to make a full scale drawing.
This enabled me to make critical decisions about
the relative neck position, saddle and scale length.


Pickup selection and position was also important. 
I ended up settling on a Seymour Duncan, Hot for P bass,
single coil, Telecaster bass pick up.


This is the pickup I chose. This is a relatively high gain pick-up.
It produces more defined high and low frequencies than the 1950's original


This side view gave me an opportunity to decide on the neck And string break angle angle over the saddle.


With the back off I was able to greatly reinforce the old Antoria, 
laminated Maple top and sides. Some of the old body was delaminating.
I stabilised all the delaminated areas with superglue.
I also made and fitted a kerfing rim to allow me to glue the back onto the body.
The old tone bar, braces, were re-glued. I cut them short to accommodate the pick up cavity.
The new mahogany neck block replaced the old fir one. 
The bracing around the neck block was reinforced and I made 2 hardwood 
tone bar extensions to overlap the truncated tone bars to reinforce the sound board
in the area of the pick up cavity. I fabricated a copper pick up surround box 
and fitted it snugly between the two hardwood tone bars.



Here the old laminated Maple Hofner back is glued on.


A view of the pick up cavity and the copper shield box,
mounted in the pick up cavity. The holes for the volume and tone 
control have also been drilled


This is my new peg head design. The original maple one was 
poorly conceived and I had my own ideas as to what would suit.
I cut and glued new wings out of sapele mahogany.
My keyhole in the top is derived from early Gibson and Maton
designs.


A detailed view of the new neck joint. The original neck was
a bolt on so I had to fabricate a neck block and dovetail to lock 
into the the neck block in the body, a very complex joint.


A dry fit of the neck joint.




Neck glued in place.


This is my cut out of the stainless steel tail piece.
I scavenge items that suit my purpose.


The completed tail piece. The brass components are 
ex rubbing strip, half round brass off the bottom of a boat.


The tobacco burst is applied.


Completed tobacco burst.


First coat of clear lacquer.



My new Peg head with burl mahogany veneer overlay
and my logo stencilled in gold.



First fit-out.
The silver and paua thistle broach made its way onto my tailpiece as a result of the fight for life that my musical brother, multi instrumentalist, Neill Duncan was fighting during the construction of this bass guitar. Sadly he lost that battle around Christmas time. Neill gifted me the broach when he left New Zealand for Australia 20 years ago.




I made the nut & saddle from and old ebony piano key.


New bass case. I had to locate a suitable case but could not find one.
I took to a jumbo archtop case and cut the neck to body section.
i made an extension and glued it into the area to extend the case to fit the 
new guitar.




The final result. I love it!
The saddle is of ebony. I made the adjuster thumb wheels out of 5 cent pieces
which I drilled and tapped to fit 2 x 3mm metric thread studs set in the bridge.
The Pick-guard / pick-up ring is fabricated from a piece of ACM board,
an aluminium/plastic/aluminium sandwich board used by sign writers, 
the edge produces a nice clean silver line when bevelled.
The volume and tone knobs are new old stock, vintage, bakelite and brass
radio knobs.
I've fitted DeAddario Black nylon, tape-wound strings


I have since fitted a new saddle. It is of a fixed height,
made from red Cedar and ebony. I hollowed out the saddle
to reduce its mass as much as possible.
The result is brilliant, better transfer of volume and tone!







Thursday, July 16, 2020

Lap steel guitar build.


My Covid 19 Lockdown project. An Hawaiian style lap steel guitar.

I had a selection of tone woods that I had been keeping for just such a project. The body and leg timber I selected is Kwila. The fretboard is of Purple Heart with maple and mother of pearl inlays.
My design is based on a Fender Champion 6 string.



I first drew a 1:1 scale plan.

I then transferred the image to the kwila plank,


Cut the profile of the top section and overlaid that onto a second plank.



Here I have glued the 2 layers together with Titebond wood glue.

Ready to trim the lower section to shape.

Another view.




Body with shaped and rounded edges..


The Purple Heart fret board roughed out.


Purple Heart fret board trimmed to thickness.


I intended to make a 3 octave fret board but soon realised there would
not be room for 2 humbucker pickups.





Here the maple fret markers are being glued in. I've selected an old
Jazz Bass chrome Bridge and a length of 10mm stainless steel rod
for a nut and saddle.


The maple markers have been trimmed and sanded.



Then a binding of maple around the edge of the fret board.


I inlayed diamond shaped position markers cut from mother of pearl.
I then routed out a trough for the fret board to be set into the body.

Here the fretboard has been glued in place and the whole body given a coat of shellac sealer.





Here I have made a template of the scratch plate with instructions
to send to our local engravers to supply and cut a faux tortoise shell scratch plate

I've marked the cavities for the pick ups and electronics ready for routing.

I permanently fixed the positions of the bridge/saddle and nut.

These are string ferrules made from 1/4 inch monel pop rivet heads.
The strings will be run through the back of the body for maximum sustain.






This item was ordered off EBay from a firm in America.
They took 3 months to arrive!

The scratch plate template is double checked before the order is completed
by the engravers.




Routing the cavity for the Tuning machines.
Just right. All that remains is for fixing holes to be drilled and the logo
and out line infilled with gold paint.




40mm Kwila Dowell was supplied by an Auckland based company.

Here I am glueing in the 10 mm studs 

These are 10mm Stainless steel wall mount pipe brackets

I drilled them through and completed the thread through the base to allow the
10mm leg studs to be securely screwed into the base of the guitar.



Judging the splay of the legs, almost there.

The pick up rings are made from the remnant of purple heart left over
from the fret board.





I had the legs tapered by a local cabinet maker.








Another dry fit. The upper ferrules are leather grommets in plated brass.




Legs blended with tinters and clear coated.

The underside of the guitar is finished in the darkest tint of the three colours chosen for the sunburtst finish which softens to a lighter, warmer tint as the eye moves over the upper surfaces.





5 coats of clear later.




Cherry red tinted clear over the purple heart fret board enhances the colour
and blends it with the rest of the guitar.

A dry fit with electronics and gold infilled into the logo and pin line.






Ready for strings and plug it in!



The sustain is amazing, totally it sounds very authentic. Wonderful with a little reverb. Great tonal range across the 2 pickups in combination with the volume and tone controls.



Featured Musician is Eric Hiakita of Auckland.